How to Grow Shallots in Your Garden: A Beginner’s Guide to Bigger, Bolder Harvests

If you’re looking to grow a flavorful, low-maintenance crop that punches above its weight in the kitchen, shallots deserve a place in your garden. Often overshadowed by their onion and garlic cousins, shallots are prized for their subtle sweetness, rich aroma, and versatility in cooking. Whether you’re planting in raised beds, backyard rows, or a few pots on your patio, shallots are surprisingly easy to grow—even for beginners.

In this complete guide, you’ll learn how to grow shallots in your garden from planting to harvest, with tips to help you get bigger bulbs and fewer pests.

Table of Contents

Why Grow Shallots?

Shallots are part of the allium family, which includes onions, garlic, and leeks. They have a milder flavor than onions, with a hint of garlic, making them ideal for sauces, vinaigrettes, and slow-cooked dishes.

Here’s why home gardeners love growing shallots:

Flavor payoff: Each bulb multiplies underground, giving you a generous return.
Compact space: Perfect for small gardens or containers.
Storage friendly: Cured shallots can last up to 6 months.
Pest resistance: Naturally deters many garden pests.

Types of Shallots

Before planting, it helps to understand the two main types of shallots:

French Shallots (True Shallots)
These are usually grown from bulbs and produce clusters of small, mild-flavored bulbs. Popular varieties include ‘French Red’ and ‘Jersey’.
Seed-Grown Shallots
Less common but available in seed catalogs. They tend to grow as single bulbs, more like onions, and are best for gardeners in warmer climates.

For simplicity, most home gardeners grow shallots from sets (small bulbs), which are planted in the fall or spring depending on your climate.

When to Plant Shallots

The ideal planting time depends on where you live:

In mild climates (zones 7–10): Plant in fall (October–November). Shallots will grow slowly over winter and be ready by late spring or early summer.
In colder regions (zones 3–6): Plant in early spring as soon as the soil is workable—usually 4–6 weeks before the last frost.

Shallots are cold-hardy and benefit from a period of chilling, which encourages bulb development.

How to Prepare the Soil

Shallots love loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting:

Choose a sunny location: At least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight.
Loosen the soil: Work it down 8–10 inches with a fork or tiller.
Add compost: Mix in aged compost or well-rotted manure.
Check pH: Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0).
Avoid wet soil: Poor drainage can cause rot. Raised beds or sandy loam are ideal.

Planting Shallots Step-by-Step

Break up your bulbs
Separate the individual cloves from the mother bulb, just like with garlic. Don’t peel them.
Space them correctly
Plant each clove with the pointed end up, about 1 inch deep and 6 inches apart. Rows should be 12 inches apart.
Water gently
Water well after planting to help roots establish. Keep the soil moist but never soggy.
Mulch lightly
Add a light layer of straw or shredded leaves to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Caring for Your Shallots

Once planted, shallots require minimal attention—but a little care goes a long way.

Watering

Shallots need consistent moisture, especially during bulb formation.
Water deeply once a week, more often in hot or dry conditions.
Stop watering 1–2 weeks before harvest to allow bulbs to cure in the soil.

Weeding

Keep the beds weed-free. Weeds compete for nutrients and can crowd your shallots.
Be careful not to disturb the shallow roots while weeding.

Fertilizing

Apply a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10) about 3 weeks after planting.
Reapply once or twice during the growing season if the plants look pale or sluggish.

Common Problems and How to Avoid Them

Shallots are generally low-maintenance, but here are a few things to watch for:

Rotting bulbs: Caused by overwatering or heavy, poorly drained soil.
Yellowing leaves: Often a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Add compost or a mild fertilizer.
Pests: Rare, but onion maggots or thrips can show up. Use row covers early on or companion planting with herbs like mint and chamomile.

Pro tip: Don’t plant shallots where onions, garlic, or leeks have recently grown. This prevents soil-borne diseases from recurring.

When and How to Harvest

You’ll know your shallots are ready when:

Leaves turn yellow and start to fall over.
Bulbs have visibly formed clusters above the soil line.

To harvest:

Gently loosen the soil around the plants.
Pull them up by hand or with a garden fork.
Shake off excess soil but don’t wash them yet.

Curing and Storing Shallots

To store shallots for months, they need to be cured properly:

Cure them in a dry, shady, well-ventilated space—like a garage or shed.
Lay them out in a single layer on a screen or rack for 2 to 3 weeks.
Once fully dry, cut off the tops and roots.
Store in mesh bags, baskets, or paper bags in a cool, dry location.

Avoid plastic bags or sealed containers—they hold moisture and promote rot.

Companion Planting with Shallots

Shallots play well with other plants. Try planting them near:

Carrots
Beets
Lettuce
Tomatoes

Avoid planting near peas and beans, as shallots may inhibit their growth.

Final Thoughts

Growing shallots in your garden is a rewarding endeavor that delivers rich flavor and generous yields from a small footprint. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just getting started, shallots are a forgiving and productive crop that requires little space and offers a big culinary return.

By choosing the right planting time, preparing the soil well, and providing consistent care, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful clusters of golden bulbs that store well and elevate every dish they touch.